Room 17, Mauritshuis, The Hague. The Netherlands, but for a moment, you may feel you don't belong on Earth. Except you do.  The painter stuns but also reminds you. One of eighty self-portraits Rembrandt painted, but only three he did the last year of his life, probably the very last (dated 1669, he's then 63), the masterpiece reveals a man tried and tested. Anybody who's suffered setbacks of any kind gets the message. Look at the eyes. Bankrupt, Rembrandt has had to sell his art collection. Turns out, he's not the only one who has had to relinquish precious belongings. Before World War II, this Rembrandt belonged to a Jewish German couple, Ernest and Ellen Rathenau, and was on permanent...

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